Variegated Monstera Care

Monstera Grow Tips:

Monstera can be rooted in either sphagnum, water or directly in potting mix.

Light: Indirect Bright Light. No Direct Sun, which can burn the plant.

Humidity/Misting: (At least 85% or more) This is the most important part to rooting monstera cuttings. Lightly mist cutting once a day. If the humidity around the plant gets too low for too long, the cutting will begin to shrivel and dampen off.

For Water rooting: Simply place the cutting in filtered water and place in a location with bright indirect light. Ideally keep the cutting upright and about half of the stem submerged. Regularly change the water. Roots will develop over the next few weeks. Do not add fertilizer to water when rooting. Transfer to potting mix when roots are developed.

Potting Mix Rooting: We typically plant cuttings directly into potting mix as the roots can develop throughout the soil and this gives the roots some aeration that water does not provide. Use a 6”-8” pot (preferably 6” — larger pots will dry more slowly). Plant the cutting with the bottom stem down into the soil up to  where the leaf stem meets the “main stem” so that the top stem is out of the mix. If your cutting has an aerial root, it helps to have it planted into the mix. Water thoroughly after planting. Then water whenever the top of the soil begins to dry so that the cutting has consistently lightly damp soil while its rooting. Monstera is not picky about potting soil and will thrive in just about any peat or coir based potting mix found in your local garden center. Perlite may be added at 20-35% for better drainage if not already in the mix. The cuttings root easily on their own so rooting hormone powder is not necessary and may burn the end of the stem if too much is used.



After receiving Node: Remove excess sphagnum from the top portion of the container. Keep enough sphagnum in the container so that half of the node is still covered. If desired, the top portion of the sphagnum can be saved for later use or replacing the bottom portion should it be needed.


Light, Humidity/Misting, Watering: Follow all of the “Basic” tips from above. Keep Sphagnum damp throughout rooting.


“Mini Greenhouse”: You can use the provided plastic container the node shipped in, as a little greenhouse to keep the humidity up for the node. This will help the node spike a new mainstem quicker. If you are going to seal the top on, it is recommended to poke/drill  5-10 holes into the top to allow for some air exchange. Every few days, its best to pour out any excess water and re-water the sphagnum with fresh water. Over the next few weeks, you’ll notice a new main stem emerge from the node. Once it is emerged 2” or more or the node has formed roots, the node is ready to be transplanted into potting mix or water to continue rooting.


Long Term Care Once Rooted:

Light: Indirect Bright Light for faster growth, but can tolerate and grow in Lower Light.

Water: Water thoroughly when the top of the soil dries. Basically keep the mix lightly damp but not soggy wet. Use a pot that has bottom holes to allow excess water to drain.

Fertilizer: Every 2 weeks with All Purpose Fertilizer (such as NPK 20-20-20). We use Optimara 20-5-10 for all our plants. Mix at the rate recommended on package. Increase fertilization if leaves yellow or if browning occurs on edges of leaves.